A Warrior in Moirangphee : Nupi by Nivedita presents the handwoven treasure of Manipur
Primordial power soars across the skies and shakes the Earth spreading beneath the land. The lush forests of Manipur brim with vitality owing to its refuge with its fangs woven into silks. To drape the spirit of this dragon is to revel in its ferocity and strength while seeking sanctuary in its protective prowess. Pakhangba is the serpentine deity of the Meitei people of Manipur. Born out of the supreme being and the Earth goddess, he is the ruler of the Earth and the protector of the realms, often depicted symbolically in geometric diagrams called ‘Paphal’. These diagrams symbolise ancient maps of cosmic currents, planetary alignments, and the internal nervous system of the Earth - each tied to different manifestations of energy used in royal rituals, clan lineages and protective talismans.
Although Moirangphee literally refers to clothes originating from the Moirang region in Manipur, Moirangphee sarees usually carry a distinctive element known as 'Yarongphi' or ‘Moirang Pheejin’. This is a triangular motif representing the sharp fangs of the Pakhangba. Ya - tooth, Rong - long, Phee - fabric. Terms that hold deep esoteric and emblematic value. The fierce dragon who possesses both destructive and creative cosmic forces, protects the wearer from unfortunate circumstances and negative intentions. The fangs are directed towards the wearer's body rather than outside, creating a symbolic energetic seal around the wearer. In Meitei culture, the sharp triangle represents the fire element and raw transformation. The continuous, unbroken row of Yarong teeth acts like a seal. Just as a vessel holds water, wrapping oneself in Yarongphi locks the wearer's personal life force within the boundary of the cloth, preventing spiritual fatigue. During sacred ceremonies like weddings or Lai Haraoba festivals, the fabric keeps the individual's spiritual state pure and undisturbed by external chaotic energies.
Moirangphee sarees are rare and often only appreciated within the boundaries of Manipur but a brand who's brought it on a larger stage is Nupi by Nivedita. Nupi (meaning : woman in Manipuri) perfectly captures the brand's core ethos: empowering women—both the artisans who craft the pieces and the women who wear them, a perfect synchronicity to the ‘Epic of Khamba and Thoibi’ — a folklore often associated with Moirangphee.
According to the epic, when the princess of Moirang fell in love with an impoverished orphan deprived of the noble blood, her father banishes her to the distant mountains. Stripped off her titles and luxurious possessions, she is left only her gift of weaving to rely on. Night by night she weaves her rage, her defiance and her suffering into the Moiranphee fabric, as if some divine power halts her from withering. The sacred fangs woven into the shawl and her raw devotion pleases the dragon and he endows her with his glorious fire. When the enemies arrived, she outmaneuvered them with a sharp tactical mind of a warrior and honoured her union with her beloved with a sacred dance at the holy shrine. Clad in the magnificent, handwoven Moirangphee, displaying the sharp Yarongphi dragon teeth, her movements of fluid grace along with fierce strength mirrored that of a celestial deity!
What's surprising is that the Yarongphee border is not embroidered on the finished fabric, as most would think, but woven directly on the loom through the extra weft technique. The weaving process begins with the preparation of the yarn, which is spun from locally sourced Mulberry silk. The yarn is then dyed using natural dyes, a practice that has been passed down through generations. Two shuttles work together - one building the motif, the other carrying the body of the cloth - crossing and interlocking threads to slowly reveal the pattern. The motif rises in a graceful triangular form, following a rhythm of odd numbers: three, five, seven, nine, eleven, and so on, each step stretching further towards the centre. Thicker extra-weft threads, woven in double plies, give the borders a stronger presence — justifying the strength of the cultures present across the length and breadth of Indian Textiles.
Written by Shagun Kapoor, Student BA (Hons) Sanskrit, Lady Shri Ram College for Women, Delhi University
This article was originally published in Kriti Magazine Issue o6. Read the full issue below
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